Is the Military Low-T?

Last week, a research letter published in the Journal of the American Medical Association—using data from a sample of nearly five hundred military members—reported that approximately twenty-five per cent of participants had at least one measured testosterone level that could qualify them as deficient. The letter is something of a Rorschach test, offering new information that could either bolster or undermine Pete Hegseth’s effort to establish a “high-T Department of War.” Universal screening for testosterone deficiency among men thirty and older has become one of Hegseth’s signature policies: “No fatties, no trannies, no beardos, no weirdos,” he crankily told a crowd of mid-level military members last month, during his “State of the Force” speech. “The patriotic cowboys are in—with testosterone testing on top.”
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Every relevant medical society recommends against screening asymptomatic men for testosterone deficiency, because it is akin to scouring a hotel room with a black light: you’re going to find a lot of stuff of indeterminate significance that you wish you hadn’t seen. The data in the JAMA letter, collected across five U.S. military sites between August, 2024, and January, 2026, suggest that more than a hundred thousand men in current service could qualify for testosterone-replacement therapy (TRT) if their screening results are treated as diagnostic. Other military data collected between 2018 and 2025 had estimated the prevalence of diagnosed testosterone deficiency in male military members at less than one per cent.

This variation reflects that a diagnosis of testosterone deficiency can be made rigorously, with a desire to rule out, or capaciously, with a desire to rule in. Decreased testosterone is often cited as an explanation for an array of nonspecific symptoms, including depressed mood, poor libido, fatigue, and spotty memory. Serum testosterone levels vary with stress, sleep, body shape, and time of day; borderline low levels are common and are hard to interpret outside the context of a careful clinical evaluation. Different organizations even use different thresholds to determine what a “low” value is: the Centers for Disease Control uses two hundred and sixty-four nanograms per decilitre, whereas the American Urological Association and the military use three hundred.

These ambiguities make the condition a perfect container for all manner of dysphoria and shame, and set patients and doctors up for conflict. Before prescribing TRT, evidence-based doctors will require multiple confirmatory tests, disregard symptoms that are vague and easily attributed to other causes, and recommend other interventions to boost testosterone production. Patients who are intent on starting injections may then flee to wellness influencers and direct-to-consumer prescribers. “I’ve been experiencing lack of energy, motivation, and 0 sex drive,” an aspiring T user lamented on Reddit’s r/Testosterone forum, dismayed that his physician would not offer him a prescription because his blood work looked fine.

Among the archetypal products of the House are its handbag collections

Cristóbal Balenciaga founded the House in 1917 in his home of Spain. In 1937, he established the brand in Paris, designing its collections there until 1968.Cristóbal Balenciaga had a reputation as a couturier of uncompromising standards and was referred to as “the master of us all” by Christian Dior and as “ The Couturier of the Couturiers” by Gabrielle Chanel. The ultra-modern shapes were trademarks of the house.

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While the brand’s identity is firmly rooted in its highly conceptual prêt-à-porter collections, its leather goods, footwear, and accessories experience worldwide success as well. Among the archetypal products of the House are its handbag collections. A new focus on the development of Balenciaga ready-to-wear collections for men was quickly established as highly successful.

Since October 2015, Demna Gvasalia has designed both men’s and women’s collections as the artistic director.

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The Balenciaga House, part of the Kering group since 2001, is one of the most influential names in fashion.

Gerald Cyrus’s Magnificent Images of Black Life

hen I look at Gerald Cyrus’s jazz photographs, I can hear the music. I can smell the stale-moldy-acid-floral scent of beer, of cigarettes on breath, of the air strained by sweat and White Diamonds perfume. I can hear the old man shouting with his arms raised, the blue-black night of a missing front tooth amplified by the shiny gold one next to it. I can feel the heat in the room, the human humidity dewing the windows in a thick fog, daring you to trace something on their misty sheets of protection. I can sense the vibration underfoot, the feet tapping and the glasses hitting countertops and the asses hitting barstools. I recognize the finger waves shaking loose, the relaxers napping up, the cigarettes dangling between cackling gapped teeth while “How Can I Ease the Pain” sizzles out from the jukebox.

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Starting in 1990, Cyrus, then a thirty-three-year-old M.F.A. student at the School of Visual Arts, began consistently documenting New York City. This month, TBW Books will publish a long-awaited collection of his images from that decade, “Uptown Odyssey.” The book gathers the photographs he took of the vibrant street corners of Harlem; of the dank, boisterous subways as he went to and from class; of Harlem’s legendary jazz clubs; and of dark, soulful night scenes, pocked with buzzing street lamps and gleaming cars. In one of my favorite images in the book, taken in 1994, two girls vamp for Cyrus’s camera beside an open fire hydrant, water spewing out onto the street and wetting their legs.

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In another photograph, from 1991, a mysterious figure clad in white skulks her way from the flat, flickering light of a train station into the seemingly endless night of the city. In an image from 1997, five men stand in front of a dazzling neon sign that reads “Lounge.” The picture is so vivid in its inky perfection that looking at it suggests the gravelly voice of the man standing on the far right, beneath the hair-braiding sign, as he explains how he picked up a girl thirty years ago who lived just beyond the frame. How she looked just like Sade; how he smooth-talked her inside a bodega and walked her home. These photographs are alive, electric, and damp with prosody, preserving moments of Black life that can never truly be duplicated.

Fashion Model Shoot

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Going Shopping for New Dress

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